Lemon pork ribs with potatoes and herbs

On first inspection, this dish somehow doesn't seem quite right at the time of year, but this is a barbecue inspired classic after all, so what's the problem? Serving as a full on dish is what this recipe is meant to do, but should there be any leftover meat, rolling it up and cutting it into little bite size chunks as a pre dinner nibble for the weekend is utter genius in my book. BBQ and what is done with pork in particular is a tireless subject, and this Georgian number from Helen Graves' travels is definitely worth a look, quite delicious.


Lemon pork ribs with potatoes and herbs

Serves 2

Lemon pork ribs with potatoes and herbs

8 garlic cloves
1 onion
1 lemon
500g pork ribs
Small bunch thyme
A few sage leaves
500g large waxy potatoes such as Charlotte
Knob of butter 

10g flat leaf parsley

Gently crack the garlic cloves with the heel of your hand, then flake away the papery skin. Peel, halve and finely slice the onion. Remove the zest from the lemon in small paper-thin scraps. 

Place the ribs in a pan that can comfortably hold all the ingredients, add the garlic, onion and lemon zest, thyme, sage leaves and a generous seasoning of salt, preferably Maldon sea salt flakes, and black pepper. Peel, rinse and thickly slice the potatoes directly into the pan so they cover the ribs etc.

Cover with water. Tear off sufficient greaseproof paper to tuck inside the pan to cover the food. Smear it with butter and place butter-side down. Bring to the boil, immediately reduce the heat, cover the pan 75 per cent and leave to simmer gently for 30 minutes. 

Check that the meat is meltingly tender, if not, cook on for a further 10 minutes. Serve scattered with parsley, the wedge of lemon, salt and pepper and crusty bread and butter. 

You may wish to add some frozen petits pois for the final few minutes of cooking; these, like the potatoes and butter-soft mellow garlic, are delicious mashed into the juices.

duck/tarragon/beetroot

The vibrant tarragon and earthy beetroot in this dish are fabulous with rich duck breast, and the colours are beautiful too. To counteract the softness, serve it with oven-warmed root vegetable crisps or fresh red chicory leaves for their bitter edginess. served on a plate is a bit 2011, but do what you need to do here.

Breast of duck with tarragon and beetroot

Serves 4

The vibrant tarragon and earthy beetroot sauces in this dish are fabulous with rich duck breast, and the colours are beautiful too. To counteract the softness, serve it with oven-warmed root vegetable crisps.

4 duck breasts 

2 small bunches fresh tarragon (about 40g)

2 tbsp butter 

2 medium shallots, finely chopped

250ml chicken stock

140ml single cream

3 large beetroot, roasted until soft, or 2 vacuum packs of ready cooked beetroot

With a sharp knife (a Stanley knife works brilliantly), score the duck skin in a criss-cross pattern. Strip the tarragon leaves from their stalks.

Melt the butter in a small pan and cook the shallots with the tarragon stalks, until the shallots are soft but not coloured. Add 5floz/140ml of the chicken stock and reduce by half. Stir in the cream, bring back to the boil and then remove from the heat. Bring a small pan of water to the boil and plunge in the tarragon leaves. After 20 seconds, drain well and transfer to a blender.

Add the cream mixture and blend until smooth, then pass through a fine sieve. Taste and season with salt and a little pepper. Peel the beetroots if necessary and chop them roughly. Whizz in a blender with the remaining chicken stock to make a smooth purée-cum-sauce. (A food processor won't get it completely smooth. If you don't have a blender or liquidiser, serve the duck with cubes of beetroot heated in a little butter.) Preheat the oven to 200C/400F/ gas mark 6.

Season the duck breasts and place them skin-side down in a medium-hot pan.

Cook until the skin starts to colour, then transfer to the oven, still on the skin side.

Roast for 5-8 minutes, depending on how well done you like it. Allow the duck to rest in a warm spot for 5-10 minutes, while you reheat the beetroot purée and tarragon sauce. Slice the duck and serve with the purée and sauce.

Steak supper

There’s a lot to be said for a great piece of incredibly simply pan fried steak – last night was as simple as a whole piece of fillet pan roasted as rare as was dared and served with crisp potatoes, a few rocket leaves, some crusty bread and a cracking Napa Zinfandel. You can go down one of three routes should you desire. Keep it simple, like my last night effort, go for the classic with Béarnaise number as I've got below, or go all fancy pants in line with the rather misleading photo slipped in here... they all work I believe.

Serves 2 happy people

2 x 200g beef steaks, a boneless slice from the rump or top round or the sirloin as thick as your thumb
Olive oil

Chips
for the Béarnaise sauce

1 small shallot
3 tblsp white wine, or tarragon vinegar
6 whole black peppercorns
3-4 stems tarragon, and their leaves
2 egg yolks
Dijon mustard
125g butter, soft, almost melted

Rub your steak all over with olive oil, not too much; just enough to give it a good gloss, then grind a little black pepper over both sides. I put salt on later. Get the grill pan hot, then slap on the steak and press it down onto the ridges with a metal spatula. Let it cook for two full minutes. Do not move it.

Now turn it over (long metal tongs are useful here), press it down again, this is when I usually add the salt, and let it cook for a further two minutes. The best way to tell if your steak is done is to press it with your finger.

Timing is a hopelessly inaccurate measure because so much depends on how your meat has been hung and butchered. The best—by which I mean the juiciest—results will come from a steak where your finger has left a slight indentation. Until you get to know the “feel” of your steaks you may have to make a small cut into them, but you will lose juice this way. If you want a well-done steak, with no blood in it, then I can’t help you. Well, I could but I won’t.

Incidentally, I sometimes pour a little wine onto the grill pan after removing the steak and let it bubble, then pour the meagre, intensely beefy juices over my steak. Serve with fries or accompanied with béarnaise sauce.

For the sauce, peel and finely chop the shallot, and put it in a small saucepan with the vinegar, peppercorns, and the tarragon leaves and stems. Bring to a boil and watch it while it reduces to a tablespoon or so. Put the egg yolks and a little mustard into a glass bowl (not a steel one, they get too hot) and place it over a pan of very gently simmering water.

The bowl should sit snugly in the top of the pan. Whisk the reduced vinegar into the egg yolks, holding the debris back in the pan, then slowly add the butter, a soft cube at a time, whisking almost constantly until it is thick and velvety. You can turn the heat off halfway through; the sauce must not get too hot. It may need a little salt . It will keep warm, with the occasional whisk, while you pan-grill your steak and fry your frites—which, by the way, I tend to buy very thin and frozen, and cook in deep peanut oil. 

cured, pickled and spiced

Yesterdays weather was a belter, winter must be over. Last opportunity to use up the season's jarred and preserved goodies before the fresh varieties start popping up all over the place again. All that said, it'll be freezing and wet again by the weekend, but in readiness for the cold hard moths later in the year, the time to start stockpiling has as good as begun! I'm starting with my favourite - proper pickles...roasted nuts next week.

Dill pickles

Before buying pickles from the grocery store, consider making your own extra crisp kosher dill pickles. Making your own dill pickles is inexpensive and will save you money over the years. Homemade kosher dill pickles also make great gifts for friends and family members. Add your favorite spices and seasonings to the pickles to make them suit your tastes. Patience is required when making kosher dill pickles. Canning the pickles will not take a lot of time, but the pickling process will take two to three weeks.

4 to 8 lb pickling cucumbers (4 inches)

2 cups white vinegar

6 cups water

1tblsp kosher salt

1 tblsp pickling spices

Large garlic cloves

Jalapeno chillies, chopped

Bay leaves

Grape leaves

4 heads fresh dill weed

Choose firm and ripe pickling cucumbers. The cucumbers used for pickling need to have plenty of warts and they should be bright green in colour

Wash the pickling cucumbers thoroughly. Remove any excess dirt and debris from the cucumbers, and lay them on a paper towel to dry.

Decide to leave your pickles whole or cut them into halves. Depending on how large your canning jars are, it may be necessary to cut the cucumbers lengthwise. Do this step before preparing the pickling solution so that the cucumbers are ready to be soaked in the brine solution.

Add the vinegar, water, salt and pickling spices to a large pot. Bring the brine solution to a rapid boil.

Place the remaining ingredients in the canning jars. Add one large, peeled garlic clove, one chopped jalapeno chilli, one bay leaf, one head of fresh dill weed and one grape leaf. The grape leaves are what make the dill pickles extra crisp.

Pack the pickling cucumbers into the jars. Do not force the cucumbers into the jar, but ensure that they fit tightly into each jar.

Pour the brine into the sterilised pickling jars. Fill the jars with the brine, leaving only 1/2 inch of space at the top.

Place the canning jar lids on the jars. Secure them with the canning jar rings.

Shake the jars to remove any leftover spices. Sit the kosher dill pickles out of sunlight in a cool and dry environment. Let the pickles ferment for at least seven days.

Taste the dill pickles after seven days have passed. Continue to pickle them for another 7 days until they reach your desired tastes

Refrigerate the pickles after opening

dumplings - little pillows of happiness

Wherever you've lived, visited, even fantasised over, there'll always be one or two resounding features in your memory bank that can take you back there in a nano second. For me it's the East and the dumpling. I've eaten not nearly enough in my life, served up just as many again, and dreamt of a disturbing figure in between the two. 

I'm not going to profess to having an ultimate recipe for any dumpling either, I know way too many people who can wipe the floor with me there, and there's as many again who are serious food experts who still leave it to a small handful of professionals. But in the odd occasion where you're too far away from that fantasy place and the need is great, this'll do fine.

Dumplings

Makes 100 

670g plain flour
330ml cold water
1 bai-cai (Chinese leaf, also called pak choi), very finely chopped, sprinkled with salt, left for 30 mins then squeezed dry
225g extra-lean minced pork, organic or free range
10-12 tiger prawns, peeled and finely chopped
4 spring onions, using both the white and green parts, very finely chopped
15g ginger, peeled and very finely chopped
sunflower oil
2 eggs, beaten
soy sauce
Chinese cooking rice wine
sea salt
sesame oil 

Suan zhi (garlic sauce) 

5 cloves garlic
Chinese dark rice vinegar
sesame seed oil 

Put the flour in a large bowl and drizzle water onto it, mixing the flour. Then use your hands to form a large ball. Leave to rest for 30 mins. For the stuffing add the bai-cai to the pork, prawns, spring onion and ginger. Heat 2 1⁄2 tblsp of oil in a wok and when the oil is smoking add the eggs, moving briskly until they are golden and crispy. Add to the pork mixture with 2 tblsp of soy sauce, 7 tblsp of sunflower oil, 3⁄4 tblsp of rice wine, three pinches of salt and a drizzle of sesame oil. 

To make the skins take a handful of dough, make it into a sausage 2.5 cm in diameter and cut into pieces 2.5 cm long. Form each piece into a ball, then flatten, making a disc about 3.5 cm in diameter. Then roll them (all 100) into circular dumpling skins about 7-8 cm in diameter (you can buy these if you must). Put 1 1⁄2 tsp of stuffing mix into the centre of each skin and press the edges together to form a half moon shape with the middle pushed together and the ends open. 

Seal the corners by creating little concertina-like folds as you press the edges together: it is crucial they don't open during the cooking process. 

To make suan zhi chop the garlic and add to the dark rice vinegar with a drizzle of sesame oil. I also add a tsp of brown sugar, 1 tblsp of soy sauce and 1⁄2 tsp of chilli oil. 

To cook the dumplings boil a pan of water and carefully add 20 at a time - they will sink. Using a spoon stir the water (not the dumplings) to create a whirlpool which will encourage the dumplings to float. When they are floating put the lid on and let them cook for 2 minutes. When the water is really boiling add a little cold water and bring it back to the boil. Do this twice more then add a final drop of water. Remove the dumplings with a slotted spoon. Eat with the sauce - pick up your dumplings with chopsticks and bite off the end to let out the steam.

mushrooming about the time of year

There isn't much you can do wrong with a mushroom. Some love them (me) some can't get past their apparent sliminess (weirdos) some just go with the flow. As their true wild season comes to a close, one last blast today is in order. Mushrooms on toast for breakfast and a slow braised beef casserole with fat handfuls of every variety I'm able to get my hands on is a fitting Sunday any which way you look at it.


Sunday breakfast has to be where the weekend makes any sense, and filling the house with the smell of sauteed mushrooms, toasted bread and fresh coffee cannot fail to get the day rolling just nicely as in Plan A. Lightly toasted focaccia just because it soaks everything up like the most delicious edible sponge. A pile of evenly sized of the harder mushrooms like pied bleu, hedgehogs and even buttons and chestnuts. Butter, a tiny splash of cream at the end. A fat pinch of really good salt and plenty chopped parsley and black pepper.

Beef will go on shortly and cook throught the day. I'm looking at a fist full of ceps to go with diced shin and a load of garlic, shallots and thyme. A decent bit of red wine in nice and early, maybe spiked with a hit of chilli, and probably farted about with a bit more still. More on all that as soon as I've snoozed off breakfast and pretended to read the Sunday papers.

Croquettes. Oxtail for now but anything will do

Post Christmas there's always bits and bobs of leftovers lying around in various pots and bags in the fridge. Once the ubiquitous Boxing day sandwiches have been presented, the curry has been made, the soup and the risotto, there's only so much left to do with all those half portions of random. Kroketten are a traditional Dutch snack food, often served with French fries. This authentic recipe takes some time but the results are far better than anything you can buy ready-made. I'm not for once suggesting many people have a handy little pot of beautifully braised oxtail spare at home, but this as a guide works with almost anything blended through a thick béchamel and deep fried "til perfectly crisp. Happy New Year!

Oxtail Croquettes

Makes 20 pieces

For the stock

900g/2lb oxtail .

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

100g/3½oz butter

2 onions, chopped

2 carrots, chopped

1 tblsp salt

2 bay leaves

Bouquet garni

6 coriander seeds, crushed

1 beef stock cube

For the ragout

6 gelatine leaves

100g/3½oz butter

150g/5½oz plain flour

1 tsp curry powder

few drops Worcestershire sauce

1 litre/1¾ pint beef stock

Oxtail meat, from the stock

For the finishing

4 free-range eggs, beaten

100g golden breadcrumbs

50g plain flour

Vegetable oil, for frying

For the stock, season the oxtail with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Heat the butter in a pan and fry the seasoned oxtail until browned all over. 

Add the onions and carrots and continue frying until the onions are softened and beginning to brown. 

Add 2.5–3 litres/4½-5¼ pints of cold water, the tablespoon of salt, bay leaves, bouquet garni and, if using, the crushed coriander seeds. 

Bring to a boil, then immediately turn down the heat and leave to simmer on the lowest possible setting for a few hours. The longer this cooks, the better it tastes.

Very carefully, sieve the hot stock through a clean tea towel, then transfer the oxtail bones to a plate and leave them to cool. Discard the onion and carrot. 

Check the seasoning of the stock and add salt or a beef stock cube if you like. Remove the meat from the bones when they are cool and throw away the fat.

Next, make the ragout. Place the gelatine leaves in a small bowl in a little cold water to soak. 

Melt the butter in a saucepan, but don’t let it brown. Add the flour, curry powder and Worcestershire sauce and stir until crumbly. 

Start adding the stock a ladleful at a time, stirring vigorously after each addition. At first, the mixture will form a smooth ball, but gradually it will become a thick sauce – the mixture has to be really firm and thick to make the kroketten.

Add the meat and stir into the sauce then squeeze out the gelatine leaves and mix them thoroughly into the ragout.

Season the ragout to taste with more salt, freshly ground black pepper, Worcestershire sauce or curry powder.

Leave the mixture to cool in the fridge until it is really cold. Put the beaten eggs in a low, wide bowl and the breadcrumbs and flour in separate bowls alongside. Take a spoonful of ragout and roll it in your hands into a sausage shape. 

Roll this in the flour, then the egg and lastly the breadcrumbs, making sure the kroketten are well covered all over. 

Continue until all the mixture is used up, then roll the kroketten in egg and breadcrumbs once again.

Heat the oil in a deep-fat fryer or large saucepan to 180°C/350°F, or until a cube of bread turns golden-brown and crisp when dropped in.

Fry the kroketten, a few at a time, until deep golden-brown. If they start to sizzle, take them out of the pan, as this is a signal that the filling is starting to leak. (CAUTION: hot oil can be dangerous. Do not leave unattended.)

Serve immediately, but take care – they will be very hot...